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Rerouted: My Odyssey from Tokyo to Harare

In Stranded, I shared the ordeal of being stuck in Tokyo and feeling uneasy about my flight route. My fortunate during this stressful ordeal included receiving extra money from family to supplement my extra days and crashing with my friends. I mustered the courage to find an alternative route to Zimbabwe and explore two East African airports. Below, you how I navigate my 4 day journey!


Saturday 4 July 2020

10:00 am   Checks out

10:05 am [Internal dialogue]  What I am supposed to do for the next 4 hours? Iโ€™m hungry and sleepy.

10:20- 2: 30pm Eats and chills at DONUT by the Train Station

14:35- 15; 15pm Train ride to friendโ€™s neighbourhood

15: 20pm Ah I see them, so kind of them to take me in.  Oh we have to run for the bus.

15:23pm Phew, we made it! Itโ€™s a 20 minute ride to their apartment and a 10 minute walk.

16:05 Yay, weโ€™re finally home. Yass, weโ€™re ordering Korean fried chicken for dinner!

Sunday, Monday and Tuesday

Chills at friendโ€™s apartment. Occasionally leaves to get snacks at the local mall. Often gets lost for hours in the neighbourhood.

Periodically checks flights status of Doha- Addis Ababa flight

Monday 6th July: Flight Cancelled

Tuesday 7th July: Flight Cancelled

This probably means that my flight Doha-Addis Ababa will be cancelled on Thursday too

[Checks flight history on Airportiaโ€™s website ]

WTF! This flight hasnโ€™t landed since June 15. Why do they keep advertising this flight if it hasnโ€™t taken off since mid-June? I need to find an alternative route home!

[Frantically searches from new route from Tokyo to Harare]

Wednesday 8th July Heads to QA Offices in swanky Chiyoda

9:30 am- Leaves friendโ€™s neighbourhood for Qatar Airways Offices

10:20 Arrives in in Chiyoda. Heads to  Atago Green Hills MORI Tower, where QA offices are located.

[Walks to reception]

Me to Receptionist: Hello. I would like to visit the Qatar Airways Office. 

Receptionist: Good morning. Do you have an appointment with Qatar Airways?

Me: No.

Receptionist: Unfortunately, you need an appointment.

Me: [On the verge of tears] Tells ordeal about flight and mobile situation.

Receptionist: Okay mam, let me call the building manager to assist.

Me to Receptionist: Thank you so much for understanding. Iโ€™ll take a seat and wait for the building manager

                                             [15 minutes later]

Building manager comes down and speaks to me. He calls QA office and provides me clearance to visit QA Office.

11:30 Changes destination

Me to QA Employee: Hello, my name is Chido Nyaruwata. I am supposed to fly to Harare via Addis Ababa. Iโ€™ve followed the Doha- Addis flight for the past 2 days and it keeps getting cancelled. Will my flight be cancelled as well?

QAE to me: Yes, your flight to Ethiopia has been cancelled.

Me to QAE: Okay, thank you for the clarification. Now, I would like to find an alternative route to Harare.

QAE: Unfortunately, we do not have an alternative flight. You will have to cancel this ticket and rebook when the flight is operational.

Me : In that case, please change my destination from Harare to Dar es Salaam. I saw that QA is flying there and that passengers are allowed to change their destination free of charge.

QAE: Are you sure? There are restri- [ interrupted mid sentence]

Me: Yes, I am very sure. The Tanzanian president, Magufuli declared that his countryโ€™s borders are open. I donโ€™t need a visa as a Zimbabwean. No restrictions for me.

QAE: What about your flight to Harare?

Me: There are flights from Dar es Salaam to Harare via Addis Ababa. Iโ€™ll find my way home from Dar es Salaam. So, can you please change my flight destination?

QAE: Yes, we can but we advise you to change your flight date from today to Friday 10 July. Youโ€™ll need to send us a proof of your flight from Dar es Salaam before you can board the flight to Doha.

Me: [ Annoyed ] Ok. I will. Thank you.

 [20 minutes later ] Receives an email notification of flight update from QA

12:45 Updates family and arranges new Ethiopian Airways flight from Dar es Salaam to Harare.

12:50 [Internal dialogue] Thank the Lord thatโ€™s over! What a sigh of relief, Iโ€™m finally leaving Tokyo. Thank goodness for denialist presidents like Magufuli! Itโ€™s absolutely irresponsible to have borders open to international tourists in the midst of a pandemic  but his open border policy gave me a through ball!

Wait. My route is Tokyo-Doha- Dar es Salaam- Addis Ababa-Harare. Iโ€™ll be traveling from Friday 10 July in the evening up to the afternoon of Monday 13 July. Yoh!

Friday 10 July Departure Day

8:30 am- Omg, I feel knots in my stomach. I hope all goes well. I need to get my gift ready for Sonja and Curtis. They helped me out in my time of need!

16:30pm- Packs bags and gets ready to leave friendโ€™s apartment for the bus. Thanks the amazing couple, gives a book and thank you card.

16:50 pm โ€“ Gets on bus and heads to station.

19:30 pm – Arrives at Narita Airport.

[Internal dialogue] A week later and Iโ€™m back! Iโ€™ve never hated an airport so much before! Life is really funny. Iโ€™ve always wanted to visit East Africa, especially Ethiopia. I guess next time, I should manifest this trip during peaceful, happy and healthy times. Not during a pandemic.

19:45 pm Heads to check in counter

21:30 pm  THAT TOOK FOREVER! The customer service here is so horrible! Why is it that the African passengers are struggling to get their boarding passes? I donโ€™t understand why flights to African countries are so difficult! Like why did I have to sign a waiver stating the QA wonโ€™t be liable if I donโ€™t return to Harare upon arrival in Dar es Salaam? Traveling while African is such a mission.

21:50 pm  Passes immigration and speed walks to the boarding gate.

22:05 pm [Internal dialogue] This flight is so empty!

Captain: Cabinet crew prepare for take-off.

Me: Yay, its official. Bye Tokyo.

02:05 am Arrives in Doha

Walks through transit.

[Internal dialogue] Urgh. The wheel of my carry bag is so wobbly.

Goes through security. The wheel falls off the bag. Forgets earphones at the security checkpoint.

An absolute NIGHTMARE

03:20 am [Sends WhatsApp to family group chat].

Hello, everyone. Finally in Doha. Will be here for 21 hours. I’ll keep you posted on my movements.

03:25 am Naps in the quiet area for 6 hrs.

09:25-11:15 am Grabs breakfast and waits around.

11:20 am Heads to Oryx Lounge

Me to receptionist: Hello, I would like to pay for 6 hours.

Receptionist: Hello mam. Welcome to the Oryx Lounge. That will be 50 dollars for 6 hours with access to showers, all day buffet and seating.

Me: Great. [ Pays].

11:30-17:20 Showers, eat, sleeps, drinks.

[Internal dialogue] That shower gave me life! I feel so human after that flight.

17:30-21:50 Waits around boarding gate

22:00 pm Boarding begins

Wow, this flight is really full. Is it safe to have so many people? What about social distancing?

11:30 pm Shame, a crying baby. Heโ€™s under so much distress. I get it, kid, the cabin pressure is a lot. There are way too many people on the flight, and the long flight is too much! I want to cry for 6 hours as well but apparently, it isnโ€™t appropriate for a grown woman to cry on a flight.

Sunday 11 July

06:20 am I didnโ€™t sleep at all. I donโ€™t think anyone did. But who cares, we’ve arrived! I canโ€™t believe Iโ€™m saying this but Iโ€™m back in Africa! Oh goodness, I sound like some annoying diasporan. I should be saying itโ€™s great to be Dar es Salaam, the blue skies, small like airport, and people with familiar features and skin tone remind me of Harare. Not Africa.

Breathtaking view outside terminal 3
07:10- Temperature is taken and fills in a health history form.

[Internal dialogue] Iโ€™m going to do this at least 4 times in the next 24hrs.

07:40 Wow, immigration was surprisingly quick. Also the airport isnโ€™t as bad as everyone said it would be. Itโ€™s quite spacious and has a nice design.

07:50- Eh, I need to find a replacement for my carryon bag. The second wheel wants to fall off. The lady at the information desk says a shop that sells bag at terminal 1 and 2. They open at 8:00.

08:30 AM- Walks to terminal 1 and 2

Cab driver 1: Hello, sister. Do you need a ride to town? Iโ€™ll charge you Uber prices, very nice.

Cab driver 2: Do you need help? Where are you going? My fares are reasonable.

Me to cab drivers: No, thank you. Iโ€™m walking to terminal 1.

[Internal dialogue] Uber prices scam ? Lol, why are cab drivers all the same. Thatโ€™s what the cab drivers say at Cape Town International Airport. Yโ€™all arenโ€™t slick.

08:40 Arrives at Terminal 1

[Internal dialogue]. Oh, this is the Julius Nyerere International Airport that people were referring to. Yeah, the old terminal isnโ€™t as aesthetically pleasing as the new one. It reminds me of Joburg Park station in the 90โ€™s. Packed and kinda of scary. The stalls are tightly packed as well.

Me to shopkeeper: Hello. How are you? Do you have any big bags?

Shopkeeper: Hello. Yes, I do. [Shows an array of bags]

Me: How much is this one?

Shopkeeper: 15 usd.

Me: [Internal dialogue] Madam. You want me to pay 15 USD for a Ghana Must Go type bag?

Oh, okay. Iโ€™ll take it. Itโ€™s big enough. Thank you.

09:10 Walks back to terminal 3

Repacks luggage with new bag. Wraps new bag in plastic

09:30-13; 45 Freshens up, eats and takes naps while in transit.

14:00-15:50 Check in, immigration and boarding

16:00 Plane departs

18:30 Arrives in Addis Ababa

19:45 Gets transit visa and Ethiopian Airlines sponsored accommodation.

Thank goodness EA gives long haul transit visitors accommodation. I need to shower and sleep properly.

20:15 Airport employee calls out passengers going to Ethiopian Skylight hotel 

Walks with group towards shuttle.

[Internal dialogue] Ah, why is there security personnel with a big gun standing close to the bus? And the internet is also switched off too. Military men, no internet – seems familiar. I guess Ethiopia is preparing me for home.

20:25 Checks in Skylight Hotel.

.

Monday 11 July

06:00 That bed was so luxurious! I had missed sleeping on a proper bed. Omg, in 6 hours I’ll be in Harare!

[Orders breakfast]

07:00 Walks to airport shuttle parked at entrance of hotel.

07:40 Arrives at Bole International Airport.

[Internal dialogue] Eh, there’s a lot of construction happening here. That means dust too. But I like the glass and steel design though. Kinda of reminds me of of Julius Nyerere Airport but a lot bigger with more shops.

08:30 Heads to boarding gate

08:50 Enters plane
The last plane of my 4 day route!

09:10 Captain: Cabin crew please prepare for take off

ME: YAAS, it’s a official. I’m on my way to Harare! This mad trip is finally coming to an end!


After 8 days of mandatory quarantine & 14 days of self isolation at home; I was allowed outside my house. Thank you for staying tuned during the Odyssey series. Blogging my experience helped me unpack the exhausting and unbelievable jouney home. I hope you stay safe and grounded. Do stick around for more travel and literature content!

By Chido.Nyaruwata

Young. Black. Zimbabwean. Wom?n.
I'm in the processing of learning who Chido Mazvita Nyaruwata is.
Come along my journey of self-discovery.

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